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January 31 Busaba Eathai
Alan Yau’s Wagamama (which he no longer owns) kick-started the fashion for canteen-style Asian dining in the capital, which became the biggest eating-out trend of the last 15 years and spawned a hundred spin-offs. His more atmospheric Busaba Eathai mini-chain was in many ways a logical progression, built on the pillars that made its older brother so successful: speed, reliability, reasonable prices. But where Busaba Eathai truly distinguishes itself is in managing to deliver, with almost uncanny consistency, some of the very best Thai cooking in the capital. Busaba neatly epitomises two central themes of eating in London: we may be in a hurry, but damn it, we’ll eat well. We strongly recommend the (marginally) quieter Store Street and Bird Street branches over Wardour Street, which is so often too packed and hurried: verily a victim of its own brilliance.
When to go Late lunch or early dinner.
What to have Chargrilled duck, tofu with spinach, mandarin juice with chilli.
Busaba Eathai, 22 Store St, WC1E 7DS, (020 7299 7900) Goodge St tube.
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